PLEASE OH please do NOT body clip your Schipperke!!!! Why? Because they are a double-coated breed (longer guard fur, softer undercoat) and by clipping you completely change the skin biome, instantly de-stabling the normal skin bacteria which keeps your dog healthy. Further, the coat may or may not ever regrow normally. So listen up and don't do it. It gets up to 120F here on a baking hot summer day, and black color holds heat...So here's how to approach hot weather correctly:
1. WATER TUB: They need WATER THEY CAN GET INTO!
As shown below, a $6 mortar mixing tub from Lowes or Home Depot works great. They need to be able to immerse themselves safely.
2. DRINKING WATER: They need two or more buckets of water to drink from (in case they tip one over. Be sure to clip or tie to a fence in the shade or immovable object. Be sure they can't get their collar caught on it.
3. SHADE: They need SHADE. Put their water in the shade, be sure they have plenty of access to cool shade with air circulation.
4. WET SAND: A tub of wet sand, in SHADE, is a real plus and they love to dig in it and hunker down to get cool. It will also help save your garden.
5. FOGGERS or MISTERS : in shade or shaded patio can lower outside temperature by 20F instantly.
5. KEEP INDOORS DURING HEAT AND PREFERABLY AIR CONDITIONED INDOORS for him/her to cool off.
Schipperkes can handle hot summer heat with no problems or special grooming, provided they have shade and plenty of drinking water and a wading pool to cool off in, and a tub of wet sand will be further beneficial.
Body clipping your Schip is not only UNdesirable, it is detrimental to them as well, exposing their skin to insects and sunscald by removing their natural covering and protection. In addition, the healthy bacteria living on their skin will be wiped out when the protective covering of hair is removed. Their coat may not grow back as it was before.
More on Our Schipperkes. . . . .
A Few Words on SCHIPPERKES .....
First of all, though small they have no small dog tendencies. As Isabel Ormiston, eminent breeder of the Kelso Schipperkes, said in the 1920's: "They are a very big dog in a very small package". Mentally, they are like small Rottweilers or German Shepherds. Don't let their cute, beguiling looks and diminutive size fool you!
Schipperkes are very, very intelligent, known to be stubborn, are funny - clever - entertaining, love their owners and want to be the best dog you will ever own. Training is a snap if you are consistent. We highly recommend Kikopup on Youtube, Cesar Millan and William Koehler. These true trainers know dogs inside and out and Schipperkes respond immediately to his techniques. With Schipperkes, either you train them or they'll train you. It's not rocket science.
BEWARE of taking a Schip to a "treat based" trainer or "positive only" trainer. Only IF there is a "transfer of value" where the dog values YOU more than the treats, will the results be great. Unless that is achieved, the tendency will be for the Schip to run the show; frustrating to both owners and trainers. Regrettably and most unfairly, these dogs are then labeled as "untrainable" or "out of control". How do I know this?? I have taken back more than one Schip who was considered so out of control the owners were told the dog was "untrainable" and needed to be put down. WITHOUT EXCEPTION, each one, after less than 20 minutes of simple, kind yet clear obedience work, could not be made to misbehave or take their eyes off me, even being worked in the goat pen admist the herd or in our chicken yards, with plenty of distractions! And this is after less than 20 minutes with me. And I'm not cosmic. After working with their owners on these simple concepts, these dogs went home to a renewed life in competent hands. The simple training they received here and instruction to their owners has made for a complete, life-long change. Each of these dogs had a list of sins a mile long, including incessant barking, soiling in the house, biting owners, guests and children, food posession, incessant activity and so on. In EACH case, once the Schip viewed their owner(s) as their pack leaders and their owners were willing to take that position and learn new skills, which were upheld daily, every one of these mis-behaviors disappeared permanently.
Anyone can train a Schipperke. Your only tools need be your willingness and ability to educate yourself and take the leadership position consistently, and use a martingale style choke collar (nylon collar with triangular chain attachment to leash) and a 6 foot 3/4" heavy leather leash, which is easy on your hand and can be used to smack aggressive dogs across their face who are trying to attack your Schip. (This happens more now as unskilled people have more large, powerful dogs they can't control). The martingale style collar releases immediately after a pull, as opposed to a regular choke chain which does not always release properly. The big thing is they can't slip or wiggle out of a martingale collar. Tightened quickly it simulates the bite on the neck of the pack leader, and the release of pressure is their reward for changed behavior. It must be immediate. Never use a "flexi" or retractable lead at any time, they are worthless, don't own one; and do not use a nylon lead of any kind as they can burn your hand if they get pulled out, and if out walking they are worthless to smack onto an aggressive dog trying to attack your smaller dog.
I am always seeking better and more effective ways to communicate to animals and understand them better. My journey continues and I have been enlightened to positive methods of dog/animal training that DO indeed work. Like anything, some methods are ineffective while others are yield good solid results. I can and do highly recommend the online classes of Susan Garrett's "Recallers" and additional classes, Emily Larlham's "Kikopup" channel on YouTube, and Ian Stone's "Simpawtico" tutorials also on YouTube. Karen Pryor's clicker tutorials and books have been excellent. Again, there is clicker training done well and clicker training done poorly; it can create precise attentive behaviors or create animals bouncing off the walls. We institute many of the "Puppy Culture" methods of Jane Killion Lindquist in raising our little guys.
During the World Wars, Schipperkes were used by the Belgian Resistance to run messages back and forth through enemy Russian lines, and not one was ever caught. You won't see a Pekinese do that! Very single minded and determined, Schipperkes are by nature suspicious of strangers, and will warm to them on their own terms. Watching their owner's body language, they will accept strangers; thus the importance of socialization and being an owner who is clearly being their pack leader. Remember, they were bred to guard barges and run off intruders. So, do they bark? Yes.
Schipperkes want to be with their owners and involved in whatever they are doing , being very adaptable in this regard. Does that mean they'll just love your friends? No, not necessarily.
Do they shed? Yes, generally twice a year. The good news: they get it over with within days. So once again, they bark? Yes, they are concerned for the welfare of their family and will alert you to odd doings. If they are bored and frustrated, it can escalate into habitual barking, but if you are doing your job as a responsible owner mindful of their needs, this and almost any other poblem will never be an issue. Their needs are: exercise - discipline/leadership - affection in that order!! IF YOU CAN'T FULFILL THESE REQUIREMENTS please be honest with all concerned and DO NOT get a Schipperke.
I believe 99.9% of dog problems are owner error caused. When you point the finger at the dog, there are three more pointing back at you. Before you get your pup, set down clearly what is acceptable and what is not and stick to it. Discipline your pup appropriately the first time unacceptable behavior is noted, not after the tenth time. Don't get after them one time, and then let the same thing go another time. Be consistent. Everyone in the family must be in pack leader position and all be consistent and agree on the rules. Schipperkes are extremely smart. If you're not running the show, they will. Hands down. Have clearly defined rules - boundaries - limitations and have everyone in the family stick to them consistently. Check out Simpawtico's YouTube tutorial on the 5 Most Important things of bringing a new dog/puppy into your home.
We care very deeply about our pups and their new owners' success, and want to see their lives blessed by their new puppy as much as ours are. We are here to help, just pick up the phone and call (best!), or turn on ye olde family computer and shoot an email. Or text. Just do it! The only dumb question is the one not asked.
And, if you are ever unable to care for your Schipperke, or your circumstance changes that you must give him or her up, or for ANY other reason, we will take him/her back at any time for any reason. They may always return home.
So if this sounds like the breed for you...give me a call, let's talk.
RAISING A CLEFT PALATE PUPPY
A note on Tiny Buttons~ in a big litter, or any litter for that matter, there may be, for whatever reason, a "runt" or one who needs a little (or a lot) extra attention.
Tiny was born a good 12 hours before his seven littermates; at night outside on the hard, cold ground (mama dog, what were you thinking?? Let you out to relieve yourself but not that kind of relief!) But we were awaiting their arrival and rescued him. He lived on goat colostrum via bottle for several days, was in with his littermates though had troubles nursing well. At one point he inhaled milk (a lot), and promptly went on antibiotics as pneumonia prevention.
He passed his well pup check at 4 weeks, but suddenly couldn't take a bottle at 5 weeks. Back to the vet, at which time the cleft palate was found (as bad as it gets, completely split front to back). That explained a lot! For the next week he got his formula (see below, right) by 1 ml. syringe on his tongue, with lots of nose wiping. He had surgery at 5 weeks and started on Science Diet AD canned food, licked from my finger. Healing was amazing, almost complete. Praise God!
Don't give up on these little guys!!Give life a chance, always. You'll be so glad you did, and will be well blessed in the long run.
Our Schipperkes are AKC registered, your assurance of the highest standard in pedigreed dogs. Ours are guaranteed free of genetic defects. They are raised in our home and socialized from an early age to people and other animals. They live with us, being part of our daily lives. They get plenty of exercise on a daily basis, working stock on the ranch or accompanying us on a horseback ride. We rely on them for predator alerts and help with livestock. They have important jobs on the ranch.
We infrequently have a litter, and pay particular attention to individual traits, both attitude and conformation and correct breed type. We are confident that a Kunic Ranch Schippeke will be a pleasure and delight to your family for many years to come. Exceedingly intelligent and highly trainable, they will mature into calmly energetic, obedient adults. Though as a breed they can be strong willed, their loyalty and devotion to their family can never be questioned. Without a doubt, they will quickly win your heart and give credence to the adage, "once a Schipperke owner,always a Schipperke owner".
We are available for 24/7 tech support 365 days a year. We provide our 30+ page puppy booklet containing information pertinent to Schipperkes and their care, also a health redord for each pup and photos of their parents and group litter photo. Each puppy is provided with it's own individual AKC Registration Application, your assurance of the highest quality purebred registry and the only one which will not accept undocumented parents. Our pups have all been vet checked and found free of any health issues, and will give their new owners many years of enjoyment and companionship. Our pups are sold with an understanding that they will be spayed/neutered and obedience trained so they will be simply the best canine buddies you will ever have the pleasure to know. If at any time you can't keep them, we will take them back for any reason.
Known as "Little Captains", their origin is as Belgian barge dogs. Schipperkes
are THE ideal choice for family enjoyment. They mature at 10 to 16
pounds, which makes them a convenient "travel size". Happy and
intelligent, they are quick and easy to train, patient with children and
good "buddies". They get along well with other animals and are
excellent watch dogs. Whatever their family is doing, they'd like to be a part of it...or run the whole show if given a chance.. As puppies, they sure look like "Little Bears" and we think you'll agree!
Give us a call, and I would be share more with you and answer your questions. It is imperative to know and trust your breeder and and feel comfortable contacting them at any time, and getting a timely response. At no time should you feel like you're left high and dry. After all we're not selling cars here, but rather awesome little family members.
Raising a pup with a cleft is no small feat, but the formula you feed makes a HUGE difference. Our homemade whole-food formula has 11 cals/ml,, compare with Esbilac at 1 cal/ml. Here it is:
In a 1 Quart mason jar:
2 cups creamy yogurt, goat yogurt is best (full fat yogurt, creamy smooth, may use any brand)
1 raw egg yolk (separated, NO white, it is not digestible)
1 Tbs Karo Syrup
Mix well, then add...
2 cups Goat Milk
and stir well.
Keep in fridge up to 5 days.
Warm small amounts in hot water or on stove stirring constantly, NOT in microwave or you'll kill the beneficial yogurt culture and cook the egg.
Feed newborns slowly with a 1 ml syringe, if necessary only a 1/10 ml at a time or less, I feed every two hours, 24 hours a day for the first 2-3 days. You don't want the formula to come out their nose!! Besides possible inhalation pneumonia, with the yogurt it is a live culture and can start growing in their sinuses. If that happens you need to treat with oral Amoxicillin as a plugged nose makes it even harder for them to get liquids down. Drink lots of coffee (you, not the pup). The syringe works better than a bottle as you can help regulate the flow. I start with a 1 ml syringe, then go to a 3 ml syringe after several days, then to a 5 ml syringe when each feeding is over 3 ml, and so on. You don't want to use a large syringe on a brand new neonate, you'll flood them with formula. Only 1 ml syringes on neonates!
I have found the original size "Miracle Nipple" to be hands down the best nipple to use, it fits on the end of any standard syringe and encourages pups to latch on. Available from Revival Animal Health.com.
If you have a little guy who needs extra calories, use one can of condensed goat milk instead of fresh and you will increase the calorie content.
Your pups will look as plump as dam raised and you do not need to limit the amount fed as they will not get diarrhea on this formula.
This formula is also appropriate for kittens.
At this time we have several Schipperkes ready to warm your heart! It is always such a blessing to see the little guys thriving with full tummies and a proud, contented mom.
These days, we start the life skills of our Schip pups early, using Jane Killion's "Puppy Culture" methods. The results are astounding! Later on it's easy to follow with properly done (developing layers of value transfer) positive training and free shaping to have a responsive family companion. The asbsolute top program I recommend is Susan Garrett's onine "Recallers" class, easy, effective, personal help if needed, overall incredible. Pups raised like this show a tendency to be easier to train, having been started early when their little minds are most pliable and accepting. As an added bonus, they are well litter box trained which is a huge step toward easier housetraining. The big thing to remember is that they are still Schipperkes, and though they will have a tendency to be more willing to please and easier to train than many of their bretheren, it doesn't make them those doting, easy to train Border Collie types.... it still means that they are true to their heritage and will still be likely to show extremely independent thinking and strong willed strategies. Again, "Recallers" will give you the tools to overcome all this. All you have to be is smarter than them by learning effective methods, be consistent and willing to learn how to stay one step ahead and it's all good.
They receive many activities regularly to develop their socialization skills , and when ready to leave home they will have their AKC papers,health record, be litter box trained, and have our Schipperke Puppy pamphlet on printed pages. When you purchase a pup from us, we hope you will stay in touch through the years, and know that we are always here to help you with your Schip in any way we can at any time. We guarantee our puppies for their first two years against any health issues for which there is a genetic marker test and in addition a 100% lifetime guaranteed to be free of MPSIIIB, VonWillebrand's Disease, and Legg-Calves-Perthes disease (a devastating disease for which there is no genetic marker test). Our pups are $1750, or $1800 microchipped including registering the chip with the new owner's information. You get what you pay for, beware of cheap pups.
If you have been viewing this site periodically, you will notice that yes, our price have gone up. Why?? Because now, pups start their vaccination prortocol at 28 days, using vaccines proven to cross the maternal antibody resistance that makes so many vaccines fail, leaving a pup susceptible to life threatening disease as their maternal antibodies fade. So, our pups already have at least 3 Parvo and 2 Distemper and Adenovirus Types 1&2 immunizations by pick up time, instead of the usual single combination puppy shot given at 8 weeks. A huge financial savings and puppy health benefit to you. We give parvo and the distemper/adenoviruses separately as pups have immature immune systems and better immunity is achieved if they only have to make antibodies to a limited number of diseases at one time. Parvo is most prevalent and important so it is given by itself. These shots have a cost to them and this ultimately saves you money and trips to the vet. Our pups are now well on the way to completing their immunizations by pick up time.
Our Puppies... the little guys.
HOT WEATHER AND SCHIPPERKES
Tiny Buttons at 4 weeks, about 11 ounces, at the time of his surgery.
Provide a tub of water in a cool location for your Schip to cool off in. This is a $6.00 mortar mixing tub from Lowe's.
Please contact us at:
"Pssst! I'm telling you, let's ditch, she'll never figure it out.......we can get the truck keys and go!"
HOW TO HAVE A WELL BEHAVED SCHIPPERKE!
Not only possible, but absolutely necessary.
PLEASE READ THIS!
First, let's acknowledge that since prehistoric times, dogs have been in packs; they are hardwired to be pack animals and adhere to those instincts. Sooo....
DO NOT talk "baby talk" or high pitched voice to your pup or dog. Why? Because dogs are PACK animals, their understanding is it's "survival of the PACK", NOT the individual. So What does that matter? Well, if you talk high pitched baby talk to your pup, you are telling him, from day one, that you are so glad he is here to be the pack leader. You are telling him by your voice that you are unfit, weak, unstable and not worthy of leading the pack to food, safety or surviving. That's going to make any dog nervous, because, being pack animals, someone has to be the leader, so if no one shows leadership, the dog will instinctively rise to be the leader which, in a human's view, will be a dog who is potentially aggressive, destructive, anxious, out of control or basically just a "bad egg". The dog will then be labeled as "unsocial", "aggressive" or other bad terms BECAUSE he had a bad puppyhood, is inbred, came from a bad neighborhood, etc etc when in fact this is HUMAN CAUSED. It will be an icy day in the Caribbean when you hear humans, as a group, admit that maybe they have been a major cause of the problems. But that's 99.9% the cause.
NEVER try to comfort a dog who is anxious or fearful as you would a child. They are NOT children. If you soothe and pet at that time, you will be rewarding your dog for that anxious or fearful behavior. Be careful what you reinforce!! Whatever you praise, you will get more of and more intensely. So if you are out walking and your dog becomes scared or anxious, you need to model calm, assertive energy, radiating confidence and calmness so your dog will look at the leader (you), and since you do not show any fear, he will decide everything is ok and problem solved. You can also ask for a behavior he's really good at, say, a sit and reward that. And, remember, LOOSE leash, not tight or firmly held. The tension or anxiety in you will zip right down that leash to your pooch. This is a key point, folks.
And no flexi-leads; you have zero control. If your dog is pulling you along (why harnesses are not good to use) and you see his butt, guess what? He's the leader, you are a follower. He should be beside or behind you. If all he does is sniff when you are walking, since their brain is 60% scent oriented, you are left with 40% to work with. Walks should be a "migration", not a sniffing/tracking session unless you are training for that. Everyone should enjoy a good walk.
Lets talk a moment about "collapsed trachaeas". It's rare if ever seen on a dog who can walk on a loose leash, attentive to his owner. There are many online tutorials to help master this from good trainers I have mentioned earlier. A harness is ok, but bear in mind they can encourage pulling. Again, you don't want your dog towing you along like a barge. Schips draw confidence from competent leadership; that's far better than letting them run the show.
DO praise and reward a calm dog who is relaxed. If excitable, do make your dog do a relaxed sit before feeding (food is a big time reward). Do pet and massage (shoulders to rear) when they are calm and relaxed.
Clearly set the rules, boundaries and limitations and ALL humans in the home must uphold these so as a group you are 100% consistent. Agree on all this ahead of time. If all aren't on board for this, then DON'T get a Schipperke. Pack leaders make all the decisions, such as: if it will be OK for the dog to be on the couch, then YOU invite him up (he is a follower, he can't make that decision), and YOU tell him when to leave. You don't come home and find him up on the couch with his cronies unless you all agree that he can be up anytime he wants (NOT recommended). You pay the taxes, you make the decisions. And it's your couch, you bought it, not him (unless he dragged one home from the outdoors).
When problems arise, face them head on and deal with the issue. DO NOT sidestep issues and DO NOT GIVE TIMEOUTS, that is one of the most stupid things you can do and dogs do not understand this at all. Seriously, have you ever seen a coyote sitting on a rock doing a "time out"? If you're really frustrated, give yourself the time out.
If you watch enough Cesar Millan ( Dog Whisperer, Cesar 911, Dog Nation etc) episodes, you will start to see a recurrent theme and increase your pack leader skills greatly. If your dog barks excitedly at guests, don't banish him to the bathroom or feebly try to hold him back as you open the door and he continues to go ballistic. Instead, claim the space around the door, move into his space to back him up, physically block him, work up to sending him back further to a specific spot (bed). You can redirect his mind with strategic clicker training and positive reinforcement. If necessary, put a slip lead on him, touch on sides to redirect his mind every time the doorbell rings and maintain your calm assertive attitude. Give a treat for him staying calm and looking at you. Set up a situation so you can work on this; if done well, you can squelch this with just a few lessons as long as the humans can change their skills for the better. Recognize and reward his "baby steps" toward success.
Also, guests need to be taught proper dog etiquette: No touch, no talk, no eye contact. After your dog has sniffed them over is when they can approach. Some dogs just couldn't care less about guests, but this is the protocol for those that do. And remember, NO high pitched baby talk.
Some points to remember when around your dog(s): Pack leaders make all decisions. Dogs are not verbal, so they read your body language constantly. Like it or not, whenever you are around your dog, you are carrying on a conversation through body language. The master of this is Cesar Millan, he won't steer you wrong....no treats, no gimmicks, no crap. There are no excuses for us either, because Cesar has tons of DVDs out there, available used too, and new ones on his website, and episodes free on YouTube. Also a free email newsletter.
Either you train them, or they'll train you. Dang, these are smart dogs!
Get off your butt and be pro-active. Deal with any issues immediately. Your dog will thank you for this; all they really want is a balanced pack leader (or leader family) so they can feel secure and cared for. As my son told me, "Mom, thanks for not letting me get away with anything". It works on kids, too.
Here we go....
Best to talk on the phone, it helps me to understand your needs, expectations and situation and I don't bite. Getting to know you is critical to get you the pup or adult Schip that will best fit your lifestyle and abilities. You can also initially contact me by email and text.
If You Decide to Adopt.....
A purchase of NuVetPlus Supplement is required for all puppy purchases as weii as for older dogs becauseof it's ability to enhance a dog's immune system. NuVetPlus is a high quality supplement and the only one clinically proven to more than double a puppy's developing immune system, naturally and without stress. It does the same for adult dogs. Smart owners keep their Schips on this for a lifetime, and I highly recommended that . I truly believe it promotes health long into advanced age. It is so far superior to anything available at the pet stores and that's a fact.
How Deposits Work.....
After we chat, if you decide that you're committed to a lifetime companion in the form of a little black dynamo, realizing of course that from here out your life will never be the same, then a $100 deposit will secure you a pup and your place on my list. If you want the tail left on, it is $150 additional extra fee (see next box below). It is deducted off the purchase price. If you place your deposit and you specifically want a male or a female and one does not appear in a current litter, and you are firm on your decision, then you will have to be patient and wait for the next litter until that gender appears. If you want one gender, but when you come out to see the pups you decide you want the opposite, IF I can accomodate the change I will, but if all are taken, you will have to wait. Should you change your mind and, say, go adopt a Pekinese, that is your decision and you forfeit your deposit. Should you have a situation come up where it is not a good time for a pup, you may just move your deposit to a future pup or you may forfeit it. You never really lose your deposit and I am as flexible as possible. Deposits are not refunded unless we decide we will never have another Schipperke litter ever. A deposit indicates to me that this person is serious and committed, so I will take their commitment as serious. If you're still shopping around, don't give me a deposit. I'm not a bank and they are non-refundable.
A Week Before Pick-Up, Send Some Old Socks....
A good idea so your pup becomes accustomed with you through scent first, so when you actually show up he is already familiar with you through your scent, their most primal instinct. The socks or other clothing must be from EVERYONE who will be living in the same house as the pup. This reduces puppy stress.
Puppy Pick Up.....
I will not hand over a pup to anyone but the new owner. I will not ship my Schipperkes...why?? Because a pup is not like a crate of zucchini, I do not ship. I do not think that a deafeningly loud, noisy, dark, cold cargo bay is where a pup or Schip belongs. If flying, it is far superior to bring them back in a soft sided carrier under your seat, and turn the experience into one of bonding. And I think it is absolutely important that you meet me and I you, in person, where I can answer any initial questions thoroughly and your new pup has time to get acquainted with new owners in a low stress, familiar environment. You can meet the parents and relatives, usually pick out your own pup, and will be provided with your pup's Health Record to date, New Owner Information, Puppy Tips Booklet, bag of food, AKC Registration app, and any other pertinent information. Also, if you fly out to get your pup, it truly is almost the same cost as having one shipped but so, so so much better for the Schip. And, that's why I do it.
I encourage you to contact me with any questions.
Deborah (805) 975-5736
We have puppies!
All our puppies are AKC registered, born and raised in our home, dewormed regularly, well socialized, guaranteed free of genetic disorders, sold on a spay/neuter contract and current on all age-appropriate vaccinations. We give our Puppy Help Booklet as well, and are always available to help in any way. We know each one's unique temperament and inclinations and can help you pick your exact right lifetime companion . Price $1750
ALSO AVAILABLE AT THIS TIME
are some young adults and adults from 1-6 years old.
*** IMPORTANT ***
DO NOT LEAVE your Schip in a car with the window cracked, in shade, assuming they will be ok, even on a cool day. If you don't believe me, put on your long johns and big down jacket and give it a try. Besides that, these dogs can and do get stolen so be savvy to all this stuff and think and be proactive on safety.
In the 1920's, the woman largely responsible for bringing the Schipperke to America was isabel Ormiston of Kelso Kennels. She considered them "The best small dog ever" and we completely agree.
The Kunic Ranch Mission: "A Schip who proudly adheres to the breed standard and is a cherished, healthy companion into old age".
Tails seem to be an ever growing issue in the Schipperke fold these days, you're either "for 'em or ag'in 'em" and theres not much middle ground. I am willing to leave tails on, but charge an additional $150 to do so. This extra is due at the time of the deposit and is not part of the deposit that gets deducted from the total price. If you tell me you want a tail left on, and I do so, and then you change your mind, you lose that $150, becase I have fulfilled my obligation. Why the extra cost? Because for one it is not in accordance with the breed standard, thus, if a person backed out on the purchase for any reason, it can be more difficult to rehome this pup (some folks are adamant against tails), or if it turns out to be a fantastic Schip and I keep it, showing is largely out of the question, thus limiting options. And here's a few things you need to know about tails.....
First, at the time this decision must be made in the pup's first week of life, there is absolutely no way to determine what that pup's tail will be like as an adult. Tails can be held up and curl over the back like a Spitz, or be held low and straight. I have heard that straighter tails held lower indicate heritage of more of the herding descent, but I can neither prove nor disprove this idea. The only "always" thing about tails is that they all wag. Also, tails can have longer hair or shorter hair. Furthermore, pups can also be born with tails of any length, from just a nubbin to full tail, and that can be seen at birth. How that tail will be carried as an adult will wait to be seen.
Also, if the person wankers out on a tailed pup, for whatever reason, it can reduce it's options for rehoming in that some people are adamant against tails, no matter if this pup is the best on earth and can bark out the Star Spangled Banner on cue, some will pass him by. Also, if he is all of that and I keep him because he turned out so fantastic and I want to show him, that's a limiting option.
Let me also clarify about tail removal, of which there are as many options as there are to skin a cat. It also gets a real bad rapp for being cruel. A lot of this idealogy is largely propagandized by ignorance or misinformation. And some will say the anus is damaged because of tail removal, that they are incotinent and so on, but all that is 100% human error. Let me be crystal clear on this one point : I love my dogs and would never do anything to harm them in any way!! That said, there are good and not good ways to remove tails and timing is important. We can create stress or eliminate it, and taking three to five day old pups to the vet for surgical removal is a big stressor for all concerned, whether or not mom goes with. There's the scent of blood when tails are surgically removed and any mom worth her salt is likely to stress on the return of her now whining wimpering pups with multiple unfamiliar scents on them. The goal of a calm mom who gets down to the business of laying down and nursing and nurturing her litter may go out the window for a while, or worse. So what to do? Simple: use a tiny orthodontic band applied with an elastrator tool (to spread the band open, like we use on sheep and goats), slip tail in, check position, release band, done. No fuss, no muss, no blood, no wimpering, no pain. Everyone is happy and calm. Pups grow so rapidly that the tails fall off, bloodless, several days later.
OK, SO LETS TALK ABOUT TAILS
One of our Schips enjoying a Home Depot or Lowe's $6 mortar mixing tray with water on a hot day.
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1. Deposit of $100 per puppy gets you on the reservation list as of the day received. We have already spoken and remember patience is a virtue. I have been as clear as possible as to timing but nothing can be set in stone as we are working with mother nature. You may call me at anytime. If you don't hear from me, it's because I have nothing pertinent to convey as pertains to your pup. I don't have time to be a babysitter and I have NOT forgotten about you (you are on a card in my file box).
2. Do you want a tail? Add $150 if you want a tail left on. It is not deductible off purchase price.
3. Male or Female? Is either ok?
The above three things must be written on a note that accompanies your mailed deposit or clearly specified in writing with an online deposit so there is no confusion or misunderstanding.
TWO WEEKS BEFORE PUPPY PICK UP:
Order your NuVet supplement on Auto-Ship so it's on hand for your new pup. My guarantee is null and void without this, so it's important.
ONE WEEK BEFORE PUPPY PICK UP:
Mail unwashed, well worn, stinky socks or shirts from EVERY family member one week before puppy pickup (and it is a pick up, I don't ship). Put in a plastic bag within the envelope so that the scent remains strong. Don't worry, I raised Yorkshire pigs for ten years and nothing phases me; I've encountered worse!
Questions?? Call me at any time. If you don't hear back, call again. I live well out of town, ranches are havens for unplanned occurances, and cell phones are not as reliable as my oft-missed landline. Call again. Here's the magic number: 805-975-5736.
"Man ohh man that stuff is good!"
Several Pups Currently Available.
Two Trained Adlult Females, 5 and 9 years.
One Young Adult Female Pup
One 4 Month Female Pup
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PLEASE NOTE: In our location it has become apparent that cell/internet problems are increasing, such as my cell phone not ringing,, not only here but with neighbors as well. In addition I am bombarded daily with junk mail/texts which circumvent the automatic "culling" process and can make it hard to find the legitimate communications. I can only say that I almost always return communications within a day or less. If it goes longer I have either missed it or even though I HAVE responded, it has apparently failed to reach you. I am in process to reactivate our old fashioned much more reliable land line with answering machine to help rectify this problem. Thank you for your patience.